Saturday, July 24^th.

We started Saturday with another SAS day-trip. We visited two mosques, and a museum. First up, the Eyüp Sultan Mosque.

It was the first mosque constructed by the Ottoman Turks following their conquest of Constantinople in 1453. It was built near the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, who was a close companion of the prophet Muhammad. It is therefore attracts many Muslim pilgrims. We were able to visit both the mosque, and the tomb. As we entered the grounds, we were shown the pen where sacrificial rams are kept. Muslims who have been blessed with enough food and shelter are expected to donate rams for slaughter, 1/3 of the meat is distributed to the poor. The sacrifice commemorates the willingness of Abraham (Ibrahim) to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God, but instead was able to sacrifice a ram (by God’s command).  The mosque is surrounded by a cemetery. Many Muslims wanted to be buried close to Abu Ayyub al-Ansari.

Next we paid a return visit to the Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque). Our guide was very engaging.  He described the methods and meanings to the Islamic prayer rituals. Its an amazing place to spend some time.

Then across the former hippodrome and into the Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi (Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum).

I was blown away by the books and calligraphy scrolls on display. Pictures were allowed, so I’ve included a selection.

Not many pictures with this posting. I apologize.

Friday night we headed out with David and Lois to take a Turkish bath. Walk/metro/map-check/ask directions/ ah, we are there. We enter off the street, down marble steps, into a reception area. We choose what services we want. I went for the whole thing.

So, first into a private changing room. Off clothes, cotton wrap sarong style, pair of awkward wooden slippers. Lock room, bring key. Into the warm room. There is a raised marble platform in the center. Lie here, look at the stars cut into the domed roof, and begin to sweat. Then the attendant shows up and gives a vigorous massage. Then off to one of the alcoves that rings the room where the attendant scrubs you with plain water and a canvas mitt. Then lots of cool water dumped over you, then the attendant washes you with sudsy water and something resembling a hand-held mop-head. But it feels more like one of those lacey bath sponges.  After having a few gallons of cool water dumped over you (which feels great in the heat), you exit the warm room, get a few towels to dry yourself and wrap yourself, and head back to your changing room.

Once dressed, you sit in a small courtyard drinking juices and teas waiting for the ladies to finish, because for an unanswerable reason they take about an hour longer than the men.

I think we need one of these in Burlington. After all, we can make it with Vermont marble right?

Friday, July 23

Friday we headed out on foot/metro to see if we could get a look at the University of Istanbul. We ran into Tim Armstrong and he joined us for the first leg. We caught the metro at Tophane and took it into the old city to the Sultanahmet stop. We did a little tourist-with-a-map scene and decided on a direction. Soon we saw the University gate. After a few “front of gate” pics, we approached the guards expecting to be refused entry. To our delight they waved us through into the campus.

The green space inside is divided by a lovely tree-lined lane leading up to the main administrative building. The first building we looked into was a very fancy building with tables laid for dining. We were not allowed to take interior pictures, but we were invited in to get a peek and it was opulent. Ornate furniture, painted walls, beautiful ceramics. I don’t know who gets to eat here, but they are VIPs for sure.

We took a glance in the astronomy building and the astrolabe out front.

Next we encountered the Beyazıt Tower, an 85 meter tall fire tower built in 1828.

When we got to the main administrative building, we saw there was some kind of function going on. Folks were showing credentials to the guards and getting entry. We approached and asked if we were allowed inside. Yes. Turns out this was a “yield” day. They were wooing potential students. Parents and students were sitting with faculty talking about their programs. There was a speech, handouts, a slide-show on a loop. We felt right at home.

After we exited the campus, Tim headed off for his adventures and Kathy and I went looking for the Grand Bazaar. We spent a lot of time with one tile vendor in his incredibly cool (as in refrigerated) shop. Kathy found some tiles she liked, but as we had been instructed, we did not buy, but rather looked for another vendor to compare quality and price. Of course, since all prices are negotiated, it takes some time to comparison shop. We did wind up going back to buy the tiles after lunch.

Then on to the spice market. We only sort-of got lost on the way there. We passed a lot of streets with shops obviously meant for Istanbul residents. Wedding garb, cookware, baby clothes… After asking directions once or twice, we popped out in front of the main gate for the spice market. We were pretty beat by then. The only thing we bought there was some dried fruit.

Then back to the ship for a rest-up.