Thursday, July 29^th.

Thursday morning we boarded busses for the ride to Giza.  Giza was once a small peasant village adjoining the pyramid field. Now it is part of Cairo as the two grow towards each other. There are 3 main pyramids at Giza in which were interred three successive pharaohs, Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure. While Egypt has uncovered well over 100 pyramids, these are the most significant.

The ride from Alexandria to Giza is about 3 hours. Our bus deposited us in a parking area about 100 meters from the Great Pyramid of Khufu. The Great Pyramid of Khufu is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still remaining. It is still the tallest pyramid in the world. (According to wikipedia, Great Pyramid of Cholula, in the Mexican state of Puebla is largest by volume).

So, they are impressive. It was hot-hot-hot, and you are standing on a rock plateau. And these monuments are BIG. And you try to imagine what they looked like when they were smooth, white limestone exteriors. And it is awesome, but you do have to think about the labor, and the reason. Making sure these leaders successfully get to the other world. But it would be better to build a just, sustainable, happy culture. And maybe that has happened. But it doesn’t last as long and is harder to see. So we think, maybe we should be building something like this. Hey, let’s build some playgrounds and hospitals.

Back on the bus. Now we head to a “country club” on the edge of the desert outside Giza. We hop into some 4-wheel-drive cars and BOUNCE out across the desert. This is meant to be fun-like-a-roller-coaster, but I was in the jump seats in the back and bouncing off the roof. I think it would have been a LOT more fun to drive a motocross bike out there! After the measured dose of bouncing we got out and were greeted by our camels and drivers. We mounted up and rode ½ hour back to the club. The camels were well behaved, the drivers were fine, and the length was about right. Long enough to enjoy the sand landscape but not too long in the sun.

After lunch we drove to Saqqara, a vast, ancient burial ground in Egypt, serving as the necropolis for the Ancient Egyptian capital, Memphis. Saqqara features numerous pyramids, including the world famous Step pyramid of Djoser. Djoser’s funerary complex was built by the royal architect Imhotep. And if you haven’t seen Bubba Ho-tep , get it, see it.

OK Back on the bus. Back to the ship.

Wed, July 28^th

On Wednesday we visited Alexandria University. We were welcomed by Mrs. Magada Hafez who is the Director of Student Activities. She invited in student leaders Mahamed Mostafa and Ahmed Maher Abdelaziz who participated in some Q&A and then escorted us on a tour of the campus. During our tour we were lucky to be invited to observe a summer “scout” activity and to share a meal in a residence dining hall.  One of the most interesting aspects of our campus visit, the lunch was served on tin plates with individual sections for the different foods.  We were treated to olives, lamb, vegetables, rice, and ubiquitous pita bread.  The meal was great although several of the students (and Kathy) passed up the fresh watermelon out of an abundance of caution about safety of local foods.

Alexandria University is the 2^nd largest university in Egypt. It has an undergraduate enrollment of 175,000 and a graduate enrollment of 20,000. Only 8,000 students live on campus. Only 1,200 international students are enrolled. As you might expect from an institution this large, they have a very broad array of programs. They are organized into “Faculties” analogous to our colleges:

Faculty of Arts

Faculty of Law

Faculty of Commerce

Faculty of Medicine

Faculty of Engineering

Faculty of Agriculture

Faculty of Dentistry

Faculty of Pharmacy

Faculty of Nursing

Faculty of Physical Education for Girls

Faculty of Fine Arts

Faculty of Agriculture (Saba Basha)

Faculty of Education

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine

Faculty of Tourism and Hotels

Faculty of Specific Education

Faculty of Kindergarten

Faculty of Sport Education for Men

High Institute of Public Health

Medical Research Institute

The University is run by a council, which is headed by the University President. The current president is Professor Hind Mamdouh Hanafy. Prior to assuming the presidency she served as Professor of Pediatrics, Vice Dean for Postgraduate Affairs and Research, Director Medical Education Center, in the Medical Faculty.

According to the CIA World Factbook, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/eg.html  about 30% of Egyptians are illiterate. Egyptian spending on education ranks 92 of 182 countries measured (USA is 57).  In GDP per capita, Egypt at $6000 ranks 134 of 227. (USA is 11 at $46,000).

Alexandria University is spread across several physical campuses in the city, and across several satellite campuses. One large campus housing many faculties is right next to the new Alexandria Library. Students can readily utilize all the physical and information resources of the library.

Thank you Mrs. Magada Hafez, Mahamed Mostafa, Ahmed Maher Abdelaziz  and all the others who made us so welcome!

Tuesday, July 27^th

In most ports, Kathy and I have done an afternoon “city orientation” tour. This has worked out well. We don’t have to rush off the ship, and we can start getting an idea about parts of the city we might want to explore. Maybe we have a chance to hit an ATM and get some local cash. If we are really lucky, we can get some kind of map..

According to our tour description… Alexandria lies northwest of the Nile Delta, and is one of the major summer resorts on the Mediterranean Sea. It is the largest port in the Arab Republic of Egypt. Founded by Alexander the Great in 332 BCE, the city flourished beyond all expectations into a prominent cultural, intellectual and economic metropolis, the remains of which are still evident to this day. It was the renowned capital of the Ptolemies and the scene of the most thrilling drama involving Cleopatra, Julius Caesar, Mark Anthony and Octavius.

According to our observations… Alexandria is struggling today. As in other countries, people are flocking to the city in search of work. It is overcrowded and many people are without work. There doesn’t seem to be enough public investment. Meanwhile, there is a HUGE 4 Seasons hotel that went up and blocked the ocean view for 200 existing buildings (at least according to a local I spoke with). And right up against the water is this amazing New Alexandria Library.

Next to the ship is a beautiful port terminal. But it is eerily empty. Obviously built to house shops, but no tenants. We board a bus and head out through the city. We are heading to Montazah Palace former home of King Farouk. Well it was a “summer” residence… It was built in 1892 by Abbas II. All children born to the dynasty have been given names beginning with F, which is considered lucky. The Kennedy clan will appreciate this. Right Karen, Kevin, Keith , Kenneth and Kate? Sorry about that Michael.

Next stop the new Library of Alexandria. The ancient library of Alexandria once housed the largest collection of manuscripts from everywhere. These were copied for preservation. Unfortunately the library was destroyed. It has been built anew. One side faces the bay and we were lucky enough to see the rising sun gleaming off this round surface. It is supposed to resemble the sun rising from the ocean and it does. The back wall is granite and is covered in letters from ancient alphabets. Inside, besides the operating library are two museums, an archeological one where cameras are NOT permitted, and a “scripts” library where cameras ARE permitted. There is also an Anwar Sadat room and a planetarium both of which we saw on a separate visit to the library.

Last, a visit to Citadel of Qaitbay. Build on the site of one of the wonders of the ancient world, the Lighthouse of Alexandria, the citadel was destroyed and rebuilt twice. It now looks like something that was built for especially for tourists to take its picture.